Lab Soil Testing
Recommended for all new customers. A 14 point analysis to determine hidden deficiencies, excesses, and poor pH . Lawns growing in poor soils will always be stressed and will be more likely to have weeds, insects, disease and poor color. When these problems are corrected the lawn will be naturally become thicker, healthier and have better color too.
Natural Aeration / Liquid Aeration
Better than core aeration and safe to use around sprinklers and underground wires. Natural Aeration contains a soil penetrant and organic soil conditioners that loosen and bio-activate tight and lifeless soils. Highly recommended as a yearly application for relieving compaction in lawns. Compacted soils tend to have shallow rooted, off color, weedy, moss and disease-prone lawns.
Penetrates deeply and improves the movement of water, air and nutrients through the soil. This application is also very beneficial to trees and shrubs. For severe clay soils we recommend 2 or more applications yearly until your soil is improved.
Organic Soil Builder
Improves soil structure and raises organic matter levels in both clay and sandy soils. Provides primary, secondary and trace elements lacking in most soils. Increases the humus content of the soil.
Organic Soil Builder helps improve the turf density and color. This is a great application for all lawns in this area, especially ones that have been chemically fertilized in the past or just beginning service with Nature's Lawn.
Snow salt ruins soil. It is not just the salt that gets piled along with your snow on the curb. As cars drive by over salted roads, the salt forms a mist that can travel 50-100 feet easily. Your whole front lawn can be affected by this. Snow salt causes thin turf, weeds, and dead spots. Curbside trees are weakened and sometimes die from salt damage. Our Salt Control application detoxifies soils and neutralizes much of the salt and helps it move down beyond the root zone.
Thanks to Glenn Hardebeck,
Agronomist, Purdue University
for the photo
A Thatch layer is not just clippings sitting on the lawn. It is actually a matted layer of clippings, stems, roots, and runners that is growing more on top of the soil instead of into the soil. A thatch condition tells us something is probably wrong with your soil. Often it tells us your soil is too compacted for the roots to dig in easily. It also tells us that your soil is not bio-active enough to decompose the thatch.
If your lawn has real thatch you can't rake it out without tearing out the lawn. The best way to reduce thatch is to get it to decompose. For this to occur, you need to create a healthy soil. It has to be well aerated (see Natural Aeration above) and bioactive. Our Biological Dethatcher application makes sure that the specific microbes necessary for thatch decomposition are present in your soil. Each application should reduce thatch by about 3/8 inch if the soil has been aerated.
A nutritionally balanced (see Lab Soil Testing above) and a well-aerated biologically active soil is your best defense against lawn fungus diseases. This application is designed build resistance to lawn diseases and encourage the development of the beneficial soil microbes that fight off lawn fungus.
Disease preventer contains kelp and humates plus a broad array of nutrients that provide trace elements and plant growth hormones. It is used by golf courses and helps prevent diseases such as red thread, snow mold and fusarium.
Did you know?
The types of weeds that exist in a lawn are often indicators of what is wrong or right with the soil? Mother nature uses weeds to help improve the soil and keep it protected. Some weeds help create nutrients that are lacking, while others actually absorb nutrients that are too excessive. Nature's Lawn uses indicator weeds as part of our lawn analysis.